Some places leave an impression, not just because of what they serve, but because of how they make you feel. Laqua Bistrot is one of those places. It’s more than a restaurant—it’s an invitation to slow down, to savour, to let the beauty of Lake Orta and the artistry of Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s kitchen draw you into something special.

Tucked within Laqua by the Lake, this intimate dining space embodies the chef’s philosophy—taking the soulful, sun-drenched flavours of the south and refining them with northern Italian elegance. While Cannavacciuolo’s three-Michelin-starred Villa Crespi remains his crown jewel, Laqua Bistrot is a more personal, relaxed expression of his culinary genius.

From the moment you arrive, the setting does the work for you. Floor-to-ceiling windows frame the stillness of Lake Orta, its waters shifting from the soft glow of morning to the golden shimmer of dusk. Inside, the design mirrors its surroundings—warm wood tones, natural textures, and an unpretentious elegance that feels luxurious without trying too hard. In the warmer months, the terrace is the place to be, aperitivo in hand, watching the lake catch the last light of the day. When the air turns crisp, the dining room transforms into a cozy retreat, where flickering candlelight bounces off glass and stone, creating an atmosphere that is both intimate and alive.

The menu, crafted by Executive Chef Giovanni Bertone—a protégé of Cannavacciuolo himself—pays homage to Italy’s rich culinary traditions with a modern twist. While there are flashes of brilliance, the overall experience leaves you wanting more, particularly when compared to Cannavacciuolo’s nearby masterpiece, Villa Crespi, just a short drive away.

During our visit, we had the opportunity to meet Chef Giovanni Bertone, and it was clear how much passion he brings to the kitchen. Born in Isernia, Molise, his love for cooking was sparked at a young age by his grandmother, setting him on a path that would eventually lead him to work alongside Cannavacciuolo at Villa Crespi. His journey—from studying Economics at La Sapienza in Rome to competing on MasterChef Italia, where he first met Cannavacciuolo, and ultimately being chosen to lead Laqua Bistrot—adds a compelling personal dimension to the restaurant. His commitment to honouring tradition while embracing innovation is evident in every dish, even if some fell slightly short of the exceptional standard set by Villa Crespi.

A meal here starts with an array of amuse-bouches, little bursts of flavour that set the tone for what’s to come. One standout dish? A ribbon-like pasta, silky and delicate, coated in a rich cheese emulsion, finished with golden breadcrumbs for just the right amount of crunch. It’s a lesson in simplicity—three or four ingredients in perfect harmony, proving that great cooking isn’t about complexity, but balance.

Then there’s the sea bass with turnip greens—a dish that plays with contrast beautifully. The delicate, flaking fish, the slight bitterness of the greens, and a sauce that pulls it all together without overpowering. Yet, some dishes didn’t quite reach expectations, lacking the depth of flavour and execution one might anticipate from a restaurant carrying Cannavacciuolo’s name. There’s a clear effort to create something memorable, but in moments, the refinement isn’t quite there.

Even the bread service—a detail often overlooked—is given the same level of care. A selection of freshly baked breads arrives with fragrant Italian olive oils and whipped butter so impossibly smooth it’s almost unfair. Small touches, but meaningful ones.

When it comes to dessert, restraint is overrated. The sfogliatella is an absolute must—a crisp, golden pastry that shatters into delicate shards with each bite, giving way to a citrus-infused cream that’s both refreshing and indulgent. The baba, soaked just enough to absorb the depth of rum without losing its texture, comes with a silky vanilla gelato that tempers its richness perfectly. It’s the kind of ending that stays with you, lingering long after the plates have been cleared.

Service at Laqua Bistrot is everything you want it to be—attentive but never intrusive, polished but not stiff. The staff know their menu inside and out, happy to recommend, to guide, to let you in on the little details that make each dish special. Pacing is impeccable. There’s no rush, yet everything arrives at just the right moment, creating a rhythm that feels effortless.

For families, it’s welcoming—kids aren’t just tolerated, they’re looked after with the same care as everyone else. The kitchen will happily adapt dishes for younger palates, making this a rare gem: a fine dining restaurant that doesn’t alienate parents looking for something special.

For couples, it’s undeniably romantic—whether you’re toasting to something special or just indulging in a beautifully curated meal by the water, the atmosphere is magic. The kind that makes you want to linger, to stretch the evening just a little longer.

Laqua Bistrot isn’t just a hotel restaurant—it’s a destination in its own right. It carries Cannavacciuolo’s signature touch, but it’s also its own thing: a place where flavour, setting, and hospitality come together in perfect balance. That said, for those who have dined at Villa Crespi, it’s hard not to compare, and in that comparison, Laqua Bistrot falls a little short. While the experience is enjoyable, it lacks the sheer culinary brilliance that makes Villa Crespi unforgettable.

Would we go back? Possibly. The setting is stunning, the service warm, and some dishes truly shine. But for those seeking a truly exceptional dining experience, a short drive to Villa Crespi might be the better bet.

In the end, Laqua Bistrot offers a taste of Cannavacciuolo’s philosophy in a more relaxed, lakeside setting, but it does not reach the heights of Villa Crespi. If you’re looking for an extraordinary meal, Villa Crespi is the clear winner. However, if you want a beautiful atmosphere with good food in a more casual setting, Laqua Bistrot still delivers a worthwhile experience.